The racket is the one piece of gear that shapes how tennis feels. The right one makes the ball easier to hit cleanly and protects your arm; the wrong one makes learning harder and can cause pain. Beginners often copy a pro’s racket, but a pro frame is usually the worst choice when you are starting out.
This guide walks through every specification that matters — weight, balance, head size, strings and more — and explains how each one changes the way the racket plays, so you can choose with confidence.
Weight
Weight is the single most important spec. Rackets run from about 260 g to over 310 g strung. A lighter racket is easier to swing, more maneuverable at the net and less tiring, but it gives less power and gets pushed around by hard balls. A heavier racket offers more power, stability and plow-through, but it is slower to handle and tougher on the arm. For most beginners, 270–300 g strung is the sweet spot: stable enough to not get knocked back, light enough to swing all match.
Balance point
Balance tells you where the weight sits. A head-light racket (weight toward the handle) feels nimble and is gentler on the arm — ideal for learning technique and for net play. A head-heavy racket puts mass in the hoop, adding power to a light frame but making it harder to maneuver and harder on the elbow. Even balance sits in between. Beginners are usually best with a head-light or even balance.
Swingweight
Swingweight is how heavy the racket feels while you swing it — it combines weight and balance. A high swingweight gives power and stability but demands a fast, early swing; a low swingweight is easy to whip but can feel unstable. As a beginner you want a moderate swingweight so the racket does some work without overwhelming your timing.
Head size
Head size is the area of the string bed, measured in square inches. Midplus heads (around 98–100) give control and precision; oversize heads (105–115) have a bigger sweet spot, more power and are far more forgiving on off-centre hits. For beginners a larger head of 100–110 sq in makes clean contact much easier.
String pattern
The string pattern is the number of main and cross strings, like 16×19 (open) or 18×20 (dense). An open pattern grips the ball for more spin and power but wears out faster; a dense pattern lasts longer and offers more control with less spin. A 16×19 pattern is the friendly default for beginners who want spin and a lively feel.
Grip size
Grip size must fit your hand. In Europe grips run L0–L5 (roughly 4 to 4⅝ inches). A grip that is too small makes you squeeze harder, inviting fatigue and tennis elbow; too big reduces wrist action and also strains the arm. Measure with the finger test — your index finger should just fit between fingertips and palm — or ask in a shop. Many adults land on L2 or L3, and you can always build a small grip up with an overgrip.
Stiffness (RA)
Stiffness (the RA value) describes how much the frame flexes. A stiff frame (RA ~68+) returns more power but transmits more shock to the arm; a flexible frame (RA ~60–65) is more comfortable and controlled with a little less free power. If you have any arm sensitivity — common when you are new and your technique is still forming — lean toward a softer, more flexible frame.
Strings & tension
Strings matter as much as the frame. Avoid stiff polyester as a beginner — it is hard on the arm; choose a softer multifilament or synthetic gut for comfort and power. Tension counts too: lower tension (around 22–24 kg) adds power and comfort, higher tension (26 kg+) adds control but feels harsher. Starting on the lower-to-mid side gives you an easier, more forgiving string bed.
Length
Standard rackets are 27 inches (68.5 cm). A few are extended to 27.5 inches for extra reach and serve power, at a small cost in maneuverability. Stick with the standard 27 inches as a beginner — it is the most balanced and what almost every racket is built around.
Frame material
Frame material affects feel and price. Cheap all-aluminium rackets are heavy and dead but fine for a first try; modern graphite or graphite-composite frames are lighter, more stable and feel far better, and most beginner rackets today use them. A graphite-composite frame is the best value for someone who wants to keep playing.
Borrow or demo a racket before you buy — ten minutes on court tells you more than any spec sheet.
What should a beginner choose?
Put it together and a great beginner racket looks like this:
- Weight: 270–300 g strung
- Balance: head-light or even
- Head size: 100–110 sq in
- String pattern: 16×19 (open)
- Stiffness: medium to flexible (arm-friendly)
- Grip: measured to your hand (often L2–L3)
- Strings: soft multifilament/synthetic, ~22–24 kg
- Length: standard 27 inches
- Material: graphite composite
Spend your money on a comfortable, forgiving frame rather than a pro model. As your technique and strength grow, you can move to a heavier, more controlled racket — but this setup will let you learn faster and play without pain.
Frequently asked questions
Should I buy the same racket as a pro?
No — pro rackets are heavy, stiff and demanding. They punish the small technique errors every beginner makes. Start forgiving.
How much should I spend?
A solid beginner graphite racket is usually mid-range; you do not need the most expensive frame. Put part of the budget toward a comfortable string and the right grip size.
Lighter or heavier?
When unsure, slightly lighter and head-light — it is easier to swing and kinder to your arm while you build technique.
Do strings really matter?
Yes. A soft string at a sensible tension can make a cheap racket feel great and protect your arm; a harsh polyester can make a good racket uncomfortable.